My Favourite Family Friendly Little Crag In The World - Tyddyn Garreg

As small crags go, Tyddyn Garreg is among the littlest with only 9 short trad routes, but each route packs in a real punch. Please note, if you are going to visit please ask the farmer before climbing as it is on private land and anyone disregarding this could affect access. Also it is not suitable for large groups.

We've been climbing there with a baby as there is no walk-in and enough space next to the crag for a picnic blanket and small pop up shelter. An added bonus is that the lovely Cross Foxes pub is only minutes away, which serves great food, coffees and beer, plus it has baby changing facilities.

The route grades are from VS to E4, but all have a bold feel as the rock is very compact and affords little protection. Luckily if you're not up for leading top ropes can be set up.

Llanymynech - Clwyd Limestone's Most Family Friendly Rock Climbing Venue?

Llanymynech is only 66 miles from Aberystwyth, and supposed to be only one and a half hours by car, but with two small children in the car it can take a little longer! Nevertheless, Llanymynech is a favourite venue of mine and once there has easy access with children. The impressive Grid Iron Wall is only minutes from the car and an ideal place for setting up camp for a picnic with an ample flat grass area to do so. The climbing is quite exacting requiring long reaches and strong fingers on a dead vertical wall.

Photo copyright D. Sargeant

The climbing is a mixture of sport and trad at Llanymynech up to f8a and E7 6c. However, the routes on Grid Iron Wall are all sport, in the range f6a to f7b. Some of the climbs are 35m in length, but those can be done in two pitches if you don't have a long enough rope or enough quickdraws. The wall is a suntrap for most of the day so ideal in cold weather, but luckily there is some shade under trees beside the crag on hot days.