Desperado

When you approach the end of the year thoughts turn to goals accomplished and those that got away. However today was not going to be a day for reflection as I was intent on getting out on rock. Unfortunately the rock on the beach was a greasy kind of wet. I wasn't going to be put off though, and walked from the main beach all the way past the mother lode out to the crumbling cliffs. As I turned to head back I caught sight of a small landslide... the cliffs don't know it's the end of the year and a time for reflection, they keep on crumbling. I wasn't going to be denied, and spied a few slopers, low down and semi-dry, on the lone boulder marking the end of the mother lode. Desperate for a climb I chalked them up and raced to put my shoes on as the tide was getting closer. One shot at it before I'd be castaway on my bouldering pad. Typical lay down start as the only decent feet were miles away from the holds. Pull on, rock over... and that's all there was time for. Another project for another year. Boots on and pad away as the waves got to within touching distance.

Desperado Project

Foam

Went down to the beach with James at the weekend to show him the bouldering.... and the rocks were covered with foam! We did manage Diamond Dancing starting from pads stacked on rocks to avoid the foam at the base of that problem. Then we got spanked on Borth Crack, struggling to pull-on. I need to find some brushes that are good for clearing sea foam and green slime! We then walked back to the main beach and worked on a low level traverse. This problem could be started further left around the corner, which would seriously beef it up.

Victory

Sometimes you've just got to go have a look. Yesterday the main bouldering area was still cut off 3 hours after high tide. I was sheltering in a cave from the light showers passing through and contemplating the walk home. I stepped out of the cave to have a quick scout around and saw this gem... a hanging prow which was dry!

Even though I fell off the last move a couple of times and came away with some bruises, it felt like a victory to get such a nice problem done given the conditions. The problem is called 'Victory' and is graded F6+ in the forthcoming climbing guide to Mid-Wales (Elenydd), and there is now 50 plus problems to get stuck into!

One Step in the Clouds

One Step... my first multi-pitch trad route in Wales, done yesterday with new friend Dave. Neither of us remembered to take a photo, but I don't think it would have done the experience any justice. The exposure high up on the second pitch was exhilarating, with the gale force winds buffeting the crag adding real bite! Whilst seconding the crux, the wind whipped a glove from my pocket. I made my best ever catch before it was lost forever in the tree tops. The route is on Vector buttress at Craig Blwch y Moch, Tremadog. I've had it in mind to do Vector after seeing a photo of it in a magazine. The camera lies.