How to climb 5.12

I've been pretty busy recently. Finished my last big trad project of the year, which I've called Palomita.

Palomita takes a line up the overhanging wall to the right of the corner

With the worsening weather, I've been heading back to North Wales and the quick drying slate to try and redpoint a route I got hooked on at the start of the year, namely Beltane f7b+ at Bus Stop Quarry. I'd previously worked out all the moves, and it seemed 'just' a case of getting the lead done. I've tried a couple of f7b+'s before, but hadn't yet redpointed a route as hard as this. I've read tons of training articles on climbing, and most of the good ones will repeat the same formula... so you don't need me to tell you. What very few of them point out is the difficulty you'll find clipping bolts at your absolute grade limit (or placing gear in trad). You may well find you can do all of the moves once you've put in sufficient time on the route, but when it comes to the lead you find that you can't let go to clip and you're gripped with fear! My theory is that a high proportion of these routes are put up by people who can actually climb harder than this, so letting go to clip for them is relatively easy. So how does this help you who are at your limit? I suspect most of your time spent chasing higher grades has been focussed on the actual climbing moves and strength/endurance/power training, and your tactics are lagging behind at your old grade plateau.

Me about to fall off at the last bolt of Beltane

Just thinking about the last bolt of Beltane makes my hands sweat. I know I can cleanly climb upto it, but the thought of clipping it is terrifying. The answer is in my tactics. If I try to clip too early I will over-reach and come off with rope in my hand. I have to climb up to and then one more move before clipping at a better position. It is the fear of the extra move which is the 'redpoint crux', even though that move is relatively 'easy'. If I don't execute the extra move properly because I'm gripped with fear I'll never make the clip. I know I've got to work on this, otherwise I'll start to lose focus further down the route and start falling off before I even get to that point. This is just a basic example of the tactics required to break into a new grade. Another tactic I could employ is to miss out the clip altogether, or for trad pre-place the gear for that route you really want to do! Get working on your tactics, and you'll climb harder than you've done before.  There's plenty of material out there to help you with this, good luck on your projects.

How Deep is Your Love?

How deep is your love for climbing a new route? Once you enter the rabbit hole it can be an odd path you are taken on...

Be wary lest the paranoia get hold as well. Your once sane climbing partners will swear you to secrecy then provide you with a new identity in the British Bryological Society and finally leave you marooned on an island to prove you are worthy. The only consolation of being marooned is in having your choice of desert island disc.

How Deep is Your Love, E1 5b

One Hundred Years of Solitude

I've named my new route in homage to the novel of the same name by the famous Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and for my own beautiful Colombian Anyela. Thanks go to Doug for pointing out the line to me, and apologies for not following his trend of naming new routes at Craig yr Eglwys (English translation: Church Rock) after game shows. Given the small climbing community in mid-Wales, the remote nature of the crag at the head of Hengwm (Old Valley) and the amusing bog-trot required... not so funny when your wellies sink without trace... it is unlikely to become a well frequented crag. The last remaining hill farmer in Hengwmannedd (Dwelling of the Old Valley) was swept away in the flood of Afon Hengwm (River of the Old Valley) decades ago. The route name alludes to the feelings one has when climbing here. Come feel them for yourselves.

Jeopardy

I had my first taste of new routing on the virgin rock. Many thanks to Doug who was the driving force developing the area for taking me there. Whilst seconding him on a couple first ascents I noticed an unclimbed pillar, and after brief inspection on top-rope we made plans to come back the next week so I could clean the line and have a go at climbing it.

Climbing on popular routes straight out of a guide book gives the impression that the rock has always been in a climbable state. However developing a new route can be dirty work. I set about my project with a patio scraper to clear out any cracks, brush to clean the rock, and look for gear placements and hand/foot holds.

I then tried the moves on top-rope and checked I could place the gear whilst climbing. Tying in for the first time on lead I felt quite calm, until the rope got caught the wrong side of the right-hand arete whilst making the crux move onto the top slab.

Luckily I was able to reverse the move and sort out the rope.

Then carry onto the top for the first ascent of Jeopardy.

It was a lot of work for 8 metres of new climbing, but very worthwhile as the experience felt more adventurous and creative.

Reign of Piece - resurrected

Drilling into rock for the first time to place a bolt was a challenging experience. An internal battle was fought, and the Bosch won. The justification? To replace the rusty bolts on the route 'Reign of Piece' at my local crag so the route can be climbed once more in relative safety (the rock does not lend itself to natural gear placements). The work was carried out with the kind advice and assistance of the first ascensionist Terry. An extra bolt was placed closer to the ground within reach of a stick-clip to protect the initial 'easier' climbing.

Due wild overhanging nature of the cliff it was physically demanding work. After two hours just four new bolts were placed. Stepping back onto ground my legs were wobbly. I now have a greater appreciation for the new routers out there putting in their time, energy and money equipping climbs for us all to enjoy. Feel free to donate to the North Wales Bolt Fund found here!

Stick-clip Adventures

I received a stick-clip as a present recently, and had chance to use it at the hardcore testing ground of Anstey's Cove. I was magnificent with the stick, using it to get me to the top of my project The Lynch! Pity I'm still struggling with the actual climbing on that route. I thought I had been training hard by bouldering, but it doesn't seem to have manifested itself with a jump in redpoint grade. I also had the chance to use an extra long stick-clip for the first bolt on Devonshire Cream... a route of 16 metres with only two bolts, the first being at half height above the crux! I doubt there are many instances like this where the extra long stick is required, so it is not worth the extra expense.

Next up for the stick was a return to the slate mines. A quickly despatched redpoint of Orangutang Overhang was followed by Shorty's Dyno a height dependent f7a on my second attempt. Success for the stick!

With the stick now on form it was time to try it on the sea bitten bolts on the wildly overhanging and crumbling cliffs of Clarach. Here the stick proved useful to give a sense of security passing the initial section of barnacled slopers. A steel umbrella would also have proved useful as the climber has a tendency to shower the belayer with pebbles. On nearing the chains, it seems de rigueur to pull off a large block and do a backwards swallow dive after it. Be warned!

The verdict on using a stick-clip is that it gives you a sense of security on leaving the ground, and a great tool for working a hard route, but you mustn't let the psychological advantage it gives override your own sense of self preservation. Stay tuned for the further adventures of the stick.

Count Me Out

On a recent trip to Stanage I used up all nine lives on Count Me Out. Nine big falls above gear. Hitting the ground, landing on my belayer, popping nuts, and ripping cams smacking me in the mouth. The whole nine yards. An epic two hours for 15 metres of grit.

Call me crazy, but count me in for some more of the same!

All for a Good Woman

"How's your training going?"... "Why haven't you posted anything on your blog?"... "If I were you I'd climb every day, why don't you get out and do more?" I haven't been very communicative recently as I've been having an illicit affair with A Good Woman Called Mari. She's proving to be a bit of an ice-maiden.

The Ice Cave at Clarach

I've gotten to second base. Third base is still proving difficult to steal, but I've got my hand on the prise a couple of times. However I've yet to mount the final push for fourth. Why am I bothering? She's above my class, but it makes the game that much sweeter. Unfortunately I'm still a punter as her grade was done by the French in the 50's, and she's a bit tired out. So what training have I been doing for this? Dave Macleod cleared snow for his warm-up on Echo Wall. Another good warm-up is clearing rocks from the base of your problem.

It also makes for a soft sandy landing when she spurns your moves. With any affair you have to remember to enjoy the chase and the romance...

Sunset at Clarach Bay

Harlech Climbing Wall

Another wet and windy weekend in Wales precipitated a trip to the new climbing wall in Harlech. Opened four months ago, and still looking brand spanking new! Not that you're likely to get too much of a spanking, as it currently only has one route in the f7 range. Nevertheless a cracking wall in a beautiful location, which will cater well for locals and holiday makers when it is no doubt raining.

Watch Me (Confessions of a Slate Virgin)

Today I ventured onto slate for the first time.

Talk of slate being like no other rock for climbing on had me somewhat apprehensive, so first off was Steps of Glory f5b. Not often will one find a climbing area which differentiates the f5's, but slate is like no other. I took the route slowly and carefully, trying to pick up the nuances of slate... small edges, high-steps, not overly generous bolting. Afterwards I took a fall on the technical start of Orangutang Overhang f6a+. I took a half step back next and did Plastic Soldier f6a... all 40 metres of it. The aforementioned plastic soldier is to be found hanging around on a bolt somewhere near the mid-point of the route. Pretty much unheard of to get a sport route of that length in the UK. With sustained climbing all the way to the top, I found myself calling 'Watch me!' more times than I'd like to admit. 'Watch me!' is not something to be shouted too loudly in the Dinorwig slate quarries due to a small issue around access... here's a photo of the infamous Dali's Hole.

What would Maggie's Climbing Team, the dole sponsored pioneers of slate climbing think of modern climbers and their toy soldiers? Well somebody set fire to the sky above Llanberis tonite...

Beginners Bruises

Messaging with a friend the other day made me realise where my bouldering is current at. Here's a excerpt: "All this bouldering is leaving me a bit battered and bruised like a beginner! I did fall off sideways bouldering by myself and my neck went crack... did it just before Xmas and was a bit stiff turning it for the next few days but seems fine now... and the gash in my leg and... oh s*#% when I start adding up the hits, it looks bad for me!" I ventured over to the cave at Clarach Bay today. The slopers were wet, so I gave them a good chalking up and prepared to fall off...