Stick-clip Adventures

I received a stick-clip as a present recently, and had chance to use it at the hardcore testing ground of Anstey's Cove. I was magnificent with the stick, using it to get me to the top of my project The Lynch! Pity I'm still struggling with the actual climbing on that route. I thought I had been training hard by bouldering, but it doesn't seem to have manifested itself with a jump in redpoint grade. I also had the chance to use an extra long stick-clip for the first bolt on Devonshire Cream... a route of 16 metres with only two bolts, the first being at half height above the crux! I doubt there are many instances like this where the extra long stick is required, so it is not worth the extra expense.

Next up for the stick was a return to the slate mines. A quickly despatched redpoint of Orangutang Overhang was followed by Shorty's Dyno a height dependent f7a on my second attempt. Success for the stick!

With the stick now on form it was time to try it on the sea bitten bolts on the wildly overhanging and crumbling cliffs of Clarach. Here the stick proved useful to give a sense of security passing the initial section of barnacled slopers. A steel umbrella would also have proved useful as the climber has a tendency to shower the belayer with pebbles. On nearing the chains, it seems de rigueur to pull off a large block and do a backwards swallow dive after it. Be warned!

The verdict on using a stick-clip is that it gives you a sense of security on leaving the ground, and a great tool for working a hard route, but you mustn't let the psychological advantage it gives override your own sense of self preservation. Stay tuned for the further adventures of the stick.