Sunday 22 January 2012
Harlech Climbing Wall
Another wet and windy weekend in Wales precipitated a trip to the new climbing wall in Harlech. Opened four months ago, and still looking brand spanking new! Not that you're likely to get too much of a spanking, as it currently only has one route in the f7 range. Nevertheless a cracking wall in a beautiful location, which will cater well for locals and holiday makers when it is no doubt raining.
Friday 13 January 2012
Watch Me (Confessions of a Slate Virgin)
Today I ventured onto slate for the first time.
Talk of slate being like no other rock for climbing on had me somewhat apprehensive, so first off was Steps of Glory f5b. Not often will one find a climbing area which differentiates the f5's, but slate is like no other. I took the route slowly and carefully, trying to pick up the nuances of slate... small edges, high-steps, not overly generous bolting. Afterwards I took a fall on the technical start of Orangutang Overhang f6a+. I took a half step back next and did Plastic Soldier f6a... all 40 metres of it. The aforementioned plastic soldier is to be found hanging around on a bolt somewhere near the mid-point of the route. Pretty much unheard of to get a sport route of that length in the UK. With sustained climbing all the way to the top, I found myself calling 'Watch me!' more times than I'd like to admit. 'Watch me!' is not something to be shouted too loudly in the Dinorwig slate quarries due to a small issue around access... here's a photo of the infamous Dali's Hole.
What would Maggie's Climbing Team, the dole sponsored pioneers of slate climbing think of modern climbers and their toy soldiers? Well somebody set fire to the sky above Llanberis tonite...
Talk of slate being like no other rock for climbing on had me somewhat apprehensive, so first off was Steps of Glory f5b. Not often will one find a climbing area which differentiates the f5's, but slate is like no other. I took the route slowly and carefully, trying to pick up the nuances of slate... small edges, high-steps, not overly generous bolting. Afterwards I took a fall on the technical start of Orangutang Overhang f6a+. I took a half step back next and did Plastic Soldier f6a... all 40 metres of it. The aforementioned plastic soldier is to be found hanging around on a bolt somewhere near the mid-point of the route. Pretty much unheard of to get a sport route of that length in the UK. With sustained climbing all the way to the top, I found myself calling 'Watch me!' more times than I'd like to admit. 'Watch me!' is not something to be shouted too loudly in the Dinorwig slate quarries due to a small issue around access... here's a photo of the infamous Dali's Hole.
What would Maggie's Climbing Team, the dole sponsored pioneers of slate climbing think of modern climbers and their toy soldiers? Well somebody set fire to the sky above Llanberis tonite...
Monday 9 January 2012
Beginners Bruises
Messaging with a friend the other day made me realise where my bouldering is current at. Here's a excerpt: "All this bouldering is leaving me a bit battered and bruised like a beginner! I did fall off sideways bouldering by myself and my neck went crack... did it just before Xmas and was a bit stiff turning it for the next few days but seems fine now... and the gash in my leg and... oh s*#% when I start adding up the hits, it looks bad for me!" I ventured over to the cave at Clarach Bay today. The slopers were wet, so I gave them a good chalking up and prepared to fall off...
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