Saturday, 29 August 2015

Family Friendly and Child Friendly Rock Climbing in Mid Wales (Elenydd/Meirionnydd)

With two young children I am more and more interested in finding family friendly and child friendly climbing in Mid Wales and West Wales. My favourite spot at the moment is (location removed as on my last visit we were told to stop climbing - I believe we should be able to climb there but until I've clarified the position I'm omitting the location).

Mid Wales Rock Climbing

With a large flat grassy area beside the crag and picnic table it is ideal for families, and we've even gotten up there with a buggy!

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

National Trust Cwm Tydu Bioblitz

Nice little video about the Cwm Tydu Bioblitz.

You may even recognize one of the climbers!

Rock Climbing Bouldering Mid Wales Cwm Tydu and Castell Bach

Here's a photo taken with my phone from the same day, with Doug on a cool boulder problem which requires jamming on the overhang! Well done to Sy for the FA of the problem and for ably spotting Doug.

Saturday, 21 February 2015

Rock Climbing in Ceredigion

Let's clear something up to begin with... there is rock climbing in Ceredigion, some of it high quality such as Ynys Lochtyn, and Craig Yr Eglwys. There is also lots of bouldering, at venues as diverse as Pumlumon and Borth. There are even a couple of spots to sport climb! With a new guidebook to Mid-Wales not far off completion, time is short to go 'off-piste' and get a real sense of exploration.

Rock Climbing Bouldering Mid Wales

Thursday, 10 July 2014

Locked-In Madness

A big thank you goes out to everyone who supported the 'Locked-In Madness' sponsored climb on the 27th July 2014 at Ynys Lochtyn. There were 15 climbers on the island for the day, which must rank as the largest gathering of climbers (actually rock climbing and not just down the pub) in Mid Wales ever?

We raised over £500 for Climbers Against Cancer (CAC), and I hope we can make this an annual event.

Cheers,

Pete 



Wednesday, 1 January 2014

To Climb or Not to Climb? Bouldering in Bogota.

Recently came across some excellent looking boulders on Alto San Mateo, Bogota. Rushed to a shop to buy a brush to clean off some problems, and returned and completed a fun little circuit of basic problems in the V0-V2 range. Returning back to base that evening a search online didn't reveal any recorded climbing on the boulders, but did however turn up some interesting details of petroglyphs on some of the boulders and a problem with quarrying damaging the site. Later a chat with some locals revealed a disinterest in the site and a fear of even visiting it due to thieves and drug users frequenting there, plus quite a few wild dogs roaming around.
What a shame to leave a beautiful and interesting location to the destruction of graffiti, broken bottles, thieves and quarrying! A visit to the well know bouldering spot of Canoas just outside Bogota showed how bouldering and the preservation of the petroglyphs could co-exist. If more people were interested in the area it would be an asset for the local community choking in petrol fumes with no safe green space on their doorstep.

Should rock climbers have the responsibility to do something to help preserve rocks, even those we can't climb?

Friday, 27 December 2013

Rock Climbing in Bogota, Canoas & Suesca Colombia...La Escalada en Bogota, Canoas & Suesca

Indoor climbing in Bogota

Bogota has plenty to offer the globe trotting rock climber and boulderer, and even if you fail to venture out of the city limits there is a bouldering wall and climbing wall. We visited Gran Pared and found the climbers there very friendly and you're guarenteed a good pump on the seriously overhanging lead climbing wall.
 
Bouldering in Bogota

Just outside Soacha, Bogota is the excellent bouldering area of Canoas. We followed directions found on a Colombian climbing website monodedo and travelled there by bus with the subsequent 2km walk. So you know where to get off the bus here's a hint... get ready to jump off when the bus passes this sign post as the bridge is just past it.

You'll be able to see the boulders off to the right. Scramble down a slope beside the bridge and walk along the side of the road until you see a gravel road on the right which leads to the old bridge over the road and the boulders.
The main bouldering area is to the right after you cross the old bridge. As we did the trek with a baby we went to the first boulder we could see on the left after crossing the bridge and did a couple of new problems. The better problem 'Palomita' goes straight up the face of 'Baby Boulder'.

Sport climbing near Bogota

The 'sporting' sport climbing of Suesca is a long bus ride from Bogota. Take the Transmilenio to Portal del Norte then walk to the 2nd bridge by a petrol station (or get off at the next stop) and get a bus to Suesca. Suesca is a very small village so don't forget to get off the bus! When the bus leaves the main road you're getting close. Once there don't forget to stop off at Ma's for a superb menu del dia for about £5, washed down with a shandy of 'Colombiana' and 'Poker' lager.
The climbing is minutes from the village. A track takes you behind the village then follow the train tracks. More than enough climbing to be had for a holiday, but be prepared for the sporting run-out nature of the routes. I was advised to take along a rack of nuts and was glad for the advice as the gradings are tough. A couple of cams would also be useful, and there are trad routes if you are prepared to lug a whole rack with you.

Hopefully someone will find this info useful and for now El show debe seguir

Friday, 27 September 2013

Baby, Wife and Dave Make Three

Having a baby sure does slow you down! Luckily my beautiful new bride understands the addiction I have to rock and I've been able to get out and do a few new lines this year.

Monday was a very special day out with a great bloke Dave who is a wonderful and generous climbing partner. He'd been eyeing a line out of the depths of a sea cave for over a year, and when the conditions were perfect he decided to pass the lead to me.


Dave's route name was perfect: Concealed Attraction.