My Favourite Family Friendly Little Crag In The World - Tyddyn Garreg

As small crags go, Tyddyn Garreg is among the littlest with only 9 short trad routes, but each route packs in a real punch. Please note, if you are going to visit please ask the farmer before climbing as it is on private land and anyone disregarding this could affect access. Also it is not suitable for large groups.

We've been climbing there with a baby as there is no walk-in and enough space next to the crag for a picnic blanket and small pop up shelter. An added bonus is that the lovely Cross Foxes pub is only minutes away, which serves great food, coffees and beer, plus it has baby changing facilities.

The route grades are from VS to E4, but all have a bold feel as the rock is very compact and affords little protection. Luckily if you're not up for leading top ropes can be set up.

Llanymynech - Clwyd Limestone's Most Family Friendly Rock Climbing Venue?

Llanymynech is only 66 miles from Aberystwyth, and supposed to be only one and a half hours by car, but with two small children in the car it can take a little longer! Nevertheless, Llanymynech is a favourite venue of mine and once there has easy access with children. The impressive Grid Iron Wall is only minutes from the car and an ideal place for setting up camp for a picnic with an ample flat grass area to do so. The climbing is quite exacting requiring long reaches and strong fingers on a dead vertical wall.

Photo copyright D. Sargeant

The climbing is a mixture of sport and trad at Llanymynech up to f8a and E7 6c. However, the routes on Grid Iron Wall are all sport, in the range f6a to f7b. Some of the climbs are 35m in length, but those can be done in two pitches if you don't have a long enough rope or enough quickdraws. The wall is a suntrap for most of the day so ideal in cold weather, but luckily there is some shade under trees beside the crag on hot days.

Family Friendly and Child Friendly Rock Climbing in Mid Wales (Elenydd/Meirionnydd)

With two young children I am more and more interested in finding family friendly and child friendly climbing in Mid Wales and West Wales. My favourite spot at the moment is (location removed as on my last visit we were told to stop climbing - I believe we should be able to climb there but until I've clarified the position I'm omitting the location).

With a large flat grassy area beside the crag and picnic table it is ideal for families, and we've even gotten up there with a buggy!

Rock Climbing in Ceredigion

Let's clear something up to begin with... there is rock climbing in Ceredigion, some of it high quality such as Ynys Lochtyn, and Craig Yr Eglwys. There is also lots of bouldering, at venues as diverse as Pumlumon and Borth. There are even a couple of spots to sport climb! With a new guidebook to Mid-Wales not far off completion, time is short to go 'off-piste' and get a real sense of exploration.

Locked-In Madness

A big thank you goes out to everyone who supported the 'Locked-In Madness' sponsored climb on the 27th July 2014 at Ynys Lochtyn. There were 15 climbers on the island for the day, which must rank as the largest gathering of climbers (actually rock climbing and not just down the pub) in Mid Wales ever?

We raised over £500 for Climbers Against Cancer (CAC), and I hope we can make this an annual event.

Cheers,

Pete 

One Hundred Years of Solitude

I've named my new route in homage to the novel of the same name by the famous Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and for my own beautiful Colombian Anyela. Thanks go to Doug for pointing out the line to me, and apologies for not following his trend of naming new routes at Craig yr Eglwys (English translation: Church Rock) after game shows. Given the small climbing community in mid-Wales, the remote nature of the crag at the head of Hengwm (Old Valley) and the amusing bog-trot required... not so funny when your wellies sink without trace... it is unlikely to become a well frequented crag. The last remaining hill farmer in Hengwmannedd (Dwelling of the Old Valley) was swept away in the flood of Afon Hengwm (River of the Old Valley) decades ago. The route name alludes to the feelings one has when climbing here. Come feel them for yourselves.

Jeopardy

I had my first taste of new routing on the virgin rock. Many thanks to Doug who was the driving force developing the area for taking me there. Whilst seconding him on a couple first ascents I noticed an unclimbed pillar, and after brief inspection on top-rope we made plans to come back the next week so I could clean the line and have a go at climbing it.

Climbing on popular routes straight out of a guide book gives the impression that the rock has always been in a climbable state. However developing a new route can be dirty work. I set about my project with a patio scraper to clear out any cracks, brush to clean the rock, and look for gear placements and hand/foot holds.

I then tried the moves on top-rope and checked I could place the gear whilst climbing. Tying in for the first time on lead I felt quite calm, until the rope got caught the wrong side of the right-hand arete whilst making the crux move onto the top slab.

Luckily I was able to reverse the move and sort out the rope.

Then carry onto the top for the first ascent of Jeopardy.

It was a lot of work for 8 metres of new climbing, but very worthwhile as the experience felt more adventurous and creative.

Reign of Piece - resurrected

Drilling into rock for the first time to place a bolt was a challenging experience. An internal battle was fought, and the Bosch won. The justification? To replace the rusty bolts on the route 'Reign of Piece' at my local crag so the route can be climbed once more in relative safety (the rock does not lend itself to natural gear placements). The work was carried out with the kind advice and assistance of the first ascensionist Terry. An extra bolt was placed closer to the ground within reach of a stick-clip to protect the initial 'easier' climbing.

Due wild overhanging nature of the cliff it was physically demanding work. After two hours just four new bolts were placed. Stepping back onto ground my legs were wobbly. I now have a greater appreciation for the new routers out there putting in their time, energy and money equipping climbs for us all to enjoy. Feel free to donate to the North Wales Bolt Fund found here!

All for a Good Woman

"How's your training going?"... "Why haven't you posted anything on your blog?"... "If I were you I'd climb every day, why don't you get out and do more?" I haven't been very communicative recently as I've been having an illicit affair with A Good Woman Called Mari. She's proving to be a bit of an ice-maiden.

The Ice Cave at Clarach

I've gotten to second base. Third base is still proving difficult to steal, but I've got my hand on the prise a couple of times. However I've yet to mount the final push for fourth. Why am I bothering? She's above my class, but it makes the game that much sweeter. Unfortunately I'm still a punter as her grade was done by the French in the 50's, and she's a bit tired out. So what training have I been doing for this? Dave Macleod cleared snow for his warm-up on Echo Wall. Another good warm-up is clearing rocks from the base of your problem.

It also makes for a soft sandy landing when she spurns your moves. With any affair you have to remember to enjoy the chase and the romance...

Sunset at Clarach Bay